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But once you get past that — OK, we’re still struggling with the idea that the owners of the legendary Caffe Venezia, which stood on this corner for 33 years, have a right to lead their own lives. (What about our ravioli needs? Did they think about that?). But once you get past that, it’s extremely fun to peek around this new neighborhood hangout and try to figure out where that fountain stood. The brickwork is still there, but this is a completely transformed space, all polished cement floors, towering ceilings and an almost gritty, warehouse vibe — albeit one with very tasty craft cocktails.

The transformed Townie opened in July, with a zinc-topped bar anchoring the far wall, cocktail tables, communal tables and regular four-tops for dining, and a comfortably casual vibe, This is the place to watch a game, drop by after work — or exams — to knock back a beer or grab a bite with the family, confident that no one will hear junior’s yowls, It’s a bloch dance sneakers boisterous setting, with sound bouncing madly off all those hard surfaces, And the service, which is not as polished as one might hope for, has the same laid-back, celebratory vibe..

In other words, this is not the place for a cozy tete-a-tete. It’s a place to have fun — and eat some very fun, reasonably priced fare. The menu chef Dana Ryan created revolves around seasonal New American fare, with a few small plates, a few larger entrees to share and a decidedly unfussy but creative approach that made us grin. It’s bar food, interpreted by a Boston-born chef whose résumé includes Berkeley’s Gather and San Francisco’s State Bird Provisions and RN74. It’s bar fare that goes with craft beer, as well as, say, a Ginger Thistle ($9, Citadelle gin, Cock and Bull ginger beer, Cynar and fresh lemon) or Barley Flower ($10, Bols genever, Lillet Blanc, St-Germain and orange bitters). Those sips are the work of mixologist Diana Krell.

In Ryan’s hands, “bar snacks” are Marin Miyagi Oysters ($3 each), Castelvetrano Olives ($4) and Chicken Liver Mousse ($8), with a parsley gelee bloch dance sneakers and crostini, Or perhaps Potato Croquettes ($8) made with Serrano ham and Manchego cheese, And the rest of the menu is devoted to a small, carefully curated list of small and larger plates, We love small menus like this, You know the kitchen is totally focused on those half-dozen seasonal dishes in a way that those with binder-thick menus can never deliver..

On this particular evening, we started by splitting a Grilled Caesar Salad ($9), the long leaves of romaine charred from a dance on the grill, and paired with incredibly sweet heirloom tomatoes, toasty croutons and a creamy, bacon-flecked dressing. It was a clever twist on the theme, but if you’re a Caesar purist, you might prefer the Garden Salad ($9), made with lightly dressed, seasonal vegetables. If you’re looking for a more entree-ish entree, you won’t dither over the decision for long. There are just four or so items, including a tempting banh mi-inspired braised pork belly sandwich ($10) and mussels with chorizo and white wine ($13).

We could not resist the allure of the Vegetarian Flatbread ($12), a slim oblong of house-made pizza dough topped with a riot of roasted summer squash, fresh herbs, mozzarella and, for $2 more, two eggs, which oozed yolk over the whole delicious thing, Cut into little wedges, it’s tailor-made for sharing — or bloch dance sneakers hogging all to yourself, And the burger ($14), with its tender, half-pound Niman Ranch patty encased in a bakery burger bun with hot sauce aioli, was terrific, You can add Gruyere for $1 more and bacon for $2, but even without that bacony deliciousness, this is a perfect burger specimen, and it comes with house-made chips, still hot and with just the right amount of saltiness..

And securing a post-mixology berth aboard the Queen Mary will put another bright coat of time’s varnish on your turn toward the vintage. Related ArticlesThe green streets of San Jose: Thousands turn out for inaugural Shamrock RunTravel Troubleshooter: An Iberia lost luggage problemWhy Arizona’s Saguaro National Park stands tall among its desert peersAll aboard Mendocino’s rail bikes!Fort Bragg: 3 ways to play on the Mendocino coastThe Long Beach waterfront area has enjoyed a renaissance the past 10 years, and you can see it all from the Sky Room’s 15th-floor perch: stellar views of Rainbow Harbor, the new/old Pike grounds and the Queen herself, sitting in fine repose. Glance out the big windows in the other direction, and downtown glitters. And when the skies are polished, you can even catch a glimpse of Los Angeles, throwing back its shoulders.

But you’ll do well to gaze into another kind of glass here: The Old-Fashioneds and the Manhattans are stellar in the Sky, and if whiskey’s not for your whistle, the barkeeps here will find other fine spirits with which to wet it, Spring, summer, fall — and even in the rarely wet winter — the downtown and bloch dance sneakers waterfront area of Long Beach jumps and jives, with lively clubs, galleries, public art and performances, Starting in early summer, the AquaBus water taxi will take you to the best coast-side venues for just a buck..

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